Joseph au Cambodge

Les merveilleuses aventures de votre serviteur au pays des Khmers

29 January 2007

Bravo for Rithy Panh

Rithy Panh was awarded on Saturday the top prize at the International Festival of Audiovisual Programs, in Biarritz, for his documentary movie Paper Cannot Wrap Up Embers in the "Creative Documentaries" category.

I had the privilege of seeing the movie in Phnom Penh a couple of months ago and I am glad that the movie won recognition. Shot in "The Building" of Phnom Penh, the movie captures the life and despair of prostitutes who are at the mercy of their clients, the police and the pimps, drugs and AIDS. In the words of Rithy Panh, the film was an attempt at "Going back over my inability to react when I was faced with something intolerable." Apart from an irreproachable behaviour from our part, what can we do in the face of such misery and injustice? NGO's don't get very good reviews from the prostitutes in the film for affectiveness, and I didn't come back from Cambodia as a big fan of NGO's but my impression was nevertheless that they were a way of saying to the young women: "someone cares". Watching Rithy's movie is also one, I hope the movie will be screened in cinemas and on television. Bravo for Rithy Panh.

French links:
French title:

26 January 2007

Off the Rails in Phnom Penh?

As this article which will probably be the last one on the "Joseph in Cambodia" blog, I would like to write a quick review of Amit Gilboa's 1998 book: Off the Rails in Phnom Penh: Into the Dark Heart of Guns, Girls, and Ganja.

Before I do that, I would like to thank again all my readers and invite those who are interested in the sequel of my adventures in Cambodia to tune to my new blog: What's Next?, in which I plan to write some wanderings in the Land of Israel...

Amit Gilboa was in Cambodia in 1997, almost ten years ago now. He writes about the country he saw but he was more specifically interested in the decadent foreigners who would come to Phnom Penh for (underage) girls, drugs and, more generally, any way to escape from their miserable lives in their "home" countries. The author acknowledges that he wasn't interested in any of the "professionals" who were in the country at the time, working for NGO's or private companies, only in "lifers" and "adventurers".

Gilboa starts with a useful, and, to the extent of my knowledge, accurate summary of Khmer history.

For the rest, ten years ago, Paris or New York probably looked very much like today, but the country he describes is definitely not the one I saw in 2006. And I was fortunate enough to have the company of NGO workers, professionals and students rather than "lifers" and "adventurers". So I cannot corroborate most of the things he describes. I didn't read the book as a total stranger either, because I could picture today's situation ten years earlier and deem what he writes (his accounts of corruption, political assassinations and the 1997 coup, prostitution, etc.) likely as the roots of today's situation - only worse.

I was nevertheless taken aback by the chapter entitled "Khmers". There are interesting remarks in that chapter on the character of Cambodians but the tricky part is the idea that no foreigner could ever understand nor get to know intimately the Cambodians. Just because it has never been done (among Gilboa's acquaintances) doesn't prove that it cannot be done!
More seriously, the way it was put, was shocked. It's true that for foreigners, in-depth intellectual contact is not easily made with Cambodians. Western and Khmer cultures have indeed very little in common. But even if very few people do so (I have probably met no more than four or five Westerners who spoke a perfect Khmer), it is possible to learn the language thoroughly and immerse oneself in the Cambodian culture.
The question is a sensitive one as even Cambodians who have lived abroad have sometimes a hard time being accepted as "real" Cambodians by their countrymen upon returning, so my opinion is not definitive either.

Overall, the book is full of fascinating anecdotes and useful bits of information and I was glad to compare an account of Cambodia in 1997 with my own. Thank you, Fabien, for recommending it to me and offering it to me as a farewell present!

17 January 2007

RDV France-Cambodge

Salut à tous,
S'il y en a qui sont à Paris et qui veulent se joindre à nous, il y a un petit meeting de phnom-penhois ce dimanche à 18h du côté de St Michel, m'écrire pour plus de détails (que je n'ai pas encore!)
Amitiés.
Joseph

15 January 2007

Heureux qui comme Ulysse...

Dear Friends,

When I left for Cambodia a year ago, day for day, I vowed that my last post upon coming home safely, with the help of God, would be entitled « Heureux qui comme Ulysse », after the poem by Joachim Du Bellay which I quote here:
Heureux qui, comme Ulysse, a fait un beau voyage,
Ou comme cestuy-là qui conquit la toison,
Et puis est retourné, plein d'usage et raison,
Vivre entre ses parents le reste de son âge !
This poem (and the song it inspired to Georges Brassens, see below) are what translate the joy of having travelled, seen, experienced, and still have the privilege of coming home to a warm welcome by one's parents. It's my "Veni, vidi, vici" in less martial terms...

Obviously I underestimated the fact that the foreign country becomes a little bit your home too (I know there is a contradiction with my previous post in saying that), that I made friends which I would be sad to leave.

In this mixture of joy and sadness, let me express how privileged I feel to have had the opportunity to travel through this journey safely and live so many determining events which will shape my future. I would like to thank all those whom I've met in Cambodia and on my trips, with a special merci du fond du coœur to my colleagues and close friends, several of whom accompanied me to the airport yesterday in very touching move.

Before concluding with the song from Georges Brassens, I would like to say to Sabine that wherever she is, I will always remember her fondly and cultivate her memory.
Heureux qui comme Ulysse
A fait un beau voyage
Heureux qui comme Ulysse
A vu cent paysages
Et puis a retrouvé après
Maintes traversées
Le pays des vertes allées

Par un petit matin d'été
Quand le soleil vous chante au cœur
Qu'elle est belle la liberté
La liberté

Quand on est mieux ici qu'ailleurs
Quand un ami fait le bonheur
Qu'elle est belle la liberté
La liberté

Avec le soleil et le vent
Avec la pluie et le beau temps
On vivait bien contents
Mon cheval, ma Provence et moi
Mon cheval, ma Provence et moi

Heureux qui comme Ulysse
A fait un beau voyage
Heureux qui comme Ulysse
A vu cent paysages
Et puis a retrouvé après
Maintes traversées
Le pays des vertes allées

Par un joli matin d'été
Quand le soleil vous chante au cœur
Qu'elle est belle la liberté
La liberté

Quand c'en est fini des malheurs
Quand un ami sèche vos pleurs
Qu'elle est belle la liberté
La liberté

Battus de soleil et de vent
Perdus au milieu des étangs
On vivra bien contents
Mon cheval, ma Camargue et moi
Mon cheval, ma Camargue et moi
(Courtesy of paroles.net)

09 January 2007

Parting from Cambodia

How long before I feel the need to come back?

You always know what you lose, never what you gain.

So why am I leaving?

The main thing is that I'm not at home here. Even though I was warmly welcomed by almost everyone, even though I can live here very comfortably my daily life, even though I love the places, the people and the way of life, I'm too different to feel at home here. My culture, my religion, my values are all different. The country's history, the country's political system are not mine. And I have a hard time with the country's current direction (or lack thereof?).

Don't get me wrong, I was glad to be here, and to discover the Khmer culture. Even with regard to values which differ from mine, I respect them. In many ways I felt much better here than in France, and I'm not sure France's direction (or lack thereof) is better! But, were I to choose to stay in France, I would be entitled, as a citizen, to try to bring the country in the "right" direction, which I'm not entitled to do here. My work's sole legitimacy was to be part of a project initiated in Cambodia by two Cambodians.

Other reasons for coming home are related to family, the wish to work on something new again and to discover yet new countries, cultures and ways of life.

I hope this post is not an anticlimax to my dear readers and friends. That everyone understands one may love a culture and a way of life without wishing to make them his.

Before my programmed flight home, I went to visit the temples in Angkor one last time. Ta Prohm was imposing, Preah Khan complex and beautiful, Ta Keo impressive in its unfinished state, Ta Nei mysterious in the absence of a single visitor. In the sunset, the Bayon, completely devoid of visitors too, was frightening and, last but not least, Angkor Wat was enigmatic as always while I tried to decypher its bas reliefs.

All the best,

Joseph

04 January 2007

Saigon / Independence Palace (now Reunification Palace)

This building impressed me a lot the first time I visited it. I visited it again on this trip to Saigon and took many pictures. Here is a glimpse of them.

Many visitors for this building: Koreans, Vietnamese and Westerners. Tourist buses where limousines once dropped official visitors. The garden is beautiful. You may notice in the back two tanks, those which broke into the palace on April 30, 1975.





The fountain is designed with geometric figures. Even in a place so well-kept, water and time have their effect on the stone.


The building itself has no gates; one walks in from the garden and feels with every step the light dimming, the air cooling.


Still on the ground floor, towards the sides and the back of the building, the same holds true. I have the impression that the architectural elements are placed with the same rythm, with variations. A theme and variations in a way...



Once inside, in the lobby, on the first floor or on the terrasse, when facing the city, shapes and surfaces are defined by the way they cut, reflect or absorb light.




Facing other directions, it's a more peaceful impression of shades and gradations, where harmony rules.


Say hi to the mirror on your way to the bathroom.

And walk up the stairs towards the top floor. Notice that even in these service stairs, attention was paid to every detail.


Eventually, you'll find yourself only one flight of stairs away from the rooftop, but don't forget to send me a text message from your cell-phone to let me know! ;-)

There are many pictures I wanted to show you but I hope you enjoyed these and you are now acquainted with this exceptional building.

02 January 2007

Happy New Year

I would like to wish all my reader a happy New Year! May 2007 be a healthy and successful year to you all... Thank you for reading my blog in 2006, it is always comforting to know that I can share part of my experiences with you.

I was in Saigon for New Year's Eve and I hope to post pictures of the Reunification Palace (formerly the Presidential Palace) which I like a lot. Vietnam, by the way, is an amazing country. So much activity, so much developement, so many youth, so much noise from the motorcycles...

I would also like to submit to your consideration an article entitled "Foreign Aid, Creating conditions for the next civil war" by David Lempert, which I read in the current issue of the Phnom Penh Post. I won't comment, I'll let you read through and make your own opinion.

Anecdote: This morning my colleague Bunchheang made a presentation to a group of visitors about the computer technologies we use and how we use them. The funny thing is that I was taking a break, thinking our presentation was to start a bit later. When I heard applause, I went up to see that the presentation was finished! So my colleague said "And by the way, this is Joseph." :-) I'm glad my colleague made the presentation by himself, I may be allowed to go home pretty soon! ;-)

Lastly, Jean, the photographer, thought my (girl) friends may appreciate a picture while waiting for me to come home. I do try to post one from time to time, but he offers his version of me in front of the Center, and you'll indeed notice the difference with a "regular" picture...


© Jean de Calan